October 18, 2004

Charbono

Pronounced [SHAR-bono]

From the International Wine of the Month Club

Found mainly in California, this grape has dwindled in acreage. Its stature as a wine in California was supported mainly by a few notable producers, who up until the 1970's regularly bottled it as a varietal. The better examples could age quite well. A few wineries still produce it, but the grape's story and relative rarity are usually more interesting than the wines it produces.

From CAL-ITALIA.ORG

Type of wine: Bold, powerful red. Origin: Thought to have originated in the Savoie region of France, some believe Charbono to be identical to the Dolcetto grape of Piemonte and, in fact, it is found there in both Dolcetto and Barbera vineyards. However, no wine labeled Charbono is produced in Italy. In California, it dates to the 1880s.

Description: Dark, almost opaque purple color with a distinctive aroma of Damson plums accented by nuances of tar, black pepper and old leather. A full-bodied palate with pronounced, but well-integrated tannins give it a rich texture and long finish.

Aging: Refinement develops over five to ten years, although the best Charbonos can age up to 20 years and develop a nobility of bouquet and flavor.

Best location: The vine does best in warm-to-hot climates where nighttime temperatures drop dramatically, facilitating acid development and retention. Small, old vineyards in Napa and Mendocino counties are the major sources of fruit in California..

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